Winterizing Basics

[Guest]

If you are going to store your craft for a couple months or more, you need to winterize. The purpose of this is to make sure the internal parts of the engine do not start to rust, and to make sure the fuel in the ski does not start to break-down and oxidize.

The first thing is to add stabilizer to the fuel. You can get fuel stabilizer at any marine or auto supply store, just mix it in the ratio according to the back of the bottle, and top off the tank with the stabilized fuel. After you add the stabilizer to the fuel tank, then you have to run the stabilized fuel through the lines and the carbs, you can do that when you flush the engine or on the last ski trip you make, just make sure you have run it enough to pump the stabilized fuel through the carbs.

The next thing you should do is flush the engine as you do after each ride, except you will fog the motor just before blowing out the excess water. Connect the flush kit, start the engine, turn on the water. Let the craft run for about 5 minutes at idle to flush out the cooling system.

To fog the ski, you need a can of Fogging Oil, available at nearly any dealer or auto parts store for a buck or two. It's basically foaming oil in a spray can that you can inject into the air intake or directly through the carbs, to coat the engine internally with a thick layer of protective oil. Spray down each carb for 30 seconds.

Some skis will have little plugs on the airbox over the carbs, that you can remove for access. Some skis such as the Yamaha powervalve 1200's have no access, and you are not able to fog the motor properly, you must pour a heavy amount of oil down the plug holes and bump the motor over several times to distribute it as best you can. After fogging is complete, put 1oz of two-stroke oil into each spark plug hole and bump the motor over a few times.

After you finish the fogging procedure, shut off the hose water, blip the throttle a couple times and shut the motor off.

Lubricate all the ski's grease fittings and cables. You need to have a grease gun and a cable luber comes in very handy. There are several grease points on a craft, usually on the drive train (pto, pump, drive shaft holder).

When all the lubing is complete, then you should remove the battery and place it on a maintenance charge. We recommend a Battery Tender. You can buy a battery tender at motorcycle shops, or several places online. Do not use a trickle charger; if left on too long it could overcharge the battery. A Battery Tender is a special charger that you can leave the battery hooked up to indefinitely. Maintain the battery's electrolyte levels with distilled water.

If you have a Sea-Doo you also need to change your pump oil once a year, when you winterize for storage.

Now that all the internal work is done the only thing left to do is wash and cover your craft.

[TBERRY007]

Thanks a million. Dealers want to winterize for me and won't assist me with verbal help. I have two (2) VX110 Sports and want to winterize them myself.

I live in Michigan. The machines will be stored in a unheated garage. The temperatures are sure to be well below frezzing. Is there anything else I should do other than what you have suggested?

Thanks

[Guest]

drain water from the bilge area after you get done so no ice chips form in the bilge

[deraeler]

Newbie here - for access to the areas that need lubing - driveshaft seals etc., is this only accomplished thru the bottom (ie: remove grate) ? I have a couple Kawasaki 1100 Zxi's.. I don't have a lift - wondering if I can do this on the trailer or if I have to roll it over...or if thre's any other way.

Service manual recommends using benzol to clean out the fuel tank and all gas lines etc. - has anyone done this?
Help?

Others I talk to simply use fuel stabilizer. I'm talking 4 months of freezing - though indoor - winter storage. Can't remove the fuel tank without removing the engine (dumb design). Fuel filters are at the bottom of the fuel intake/vent tubes that descend into the tank from the top - again, not a trivial task to clean them - the tank has to come out. Like to celan these tubes too as laquer buildup has caused the floats to stick - thus my fuel gauges dont work well.


Really most concerned about the seals - this sounds like the biggest challenge. At the risk fo sounding stupid - what ype of grease gun works best? I actually have one I use on my mountain bikes for a teflon-type lube - wondering if this would suffice...?

thanks,
deraeler

[deraeler]

woops - one more question - if you fog the cylinders until the engine stops, how do you re-start it in the spring? Does it take starting fluid or something to flush that stuff out so the engine will turn over again?

[Jenn89gt]

I have a question. What do I do with the antifreeze? I think that is the only point I don't understand. Can someone help me understand.


Thanks

[Guest]

The use of antifreeze in the system is important as some areas of the jet ski or boat may retain water, even after starting the engine and blowing the water out. In fact the water box, or "muffler" on many jet skis will usually retain some water.

The jet skis that have a quick hose connect used to connect a water line to the craft, are easier to work with, however, if the unit does not have a flush valve, just disconnect one of the main water inlet lines, or install a "radiator flush kit" inline. A flush kit may be purchased at a local auto parts store.

Now, get a gallon of antifreeze and a funnel and hose.

Connect the hose to the jet ski flush valve or quick hose connect. "A short hose approximately 3 feet long will be needed, do not use a long water hose".

Next, insert the funnel into the other end of the hose.

Now, start the jet ski. "DO NOT RUN ANY FLUIDS THROUGH THE ENGINE OF A JET SKI WHILE THE ENGINE IS OFF, OR DAMAGE MAY OCCUR"

With the engine running, pour antifreeze through the funnel.

After 30 seconds or so you should see antifreeze coming out of the rear of the jet ski, indicating that it has been introduced through the entire engine and exhaust system.

At that point, stop pouring antifreeze through the funnel and allow the final amount to drain.

Then with the engine still running, (CONSTANTLY FEEL THE TOP OF THE HEAD ON THE BLOCK, IF IT BECOMES VERY WARM, SHUT ENGINE OFF), remove the hose and funnel.

Then shut engine off.

At this point you have successfully flushed the engine with antifreeze, and it will be good to go until spring.

[Guest]

After running antifreeze through system, you should rev the engine aggressively a few times to blow out as much antifreeze as possible.

Just make sure that the cyclinder head is not too warm. If you have any question, then wait a few minutes before restarting.

If it is easy to remove one of the upper water lines, you can even blow compressed air through the system as well.

Many people do not know this, but pure antifreeze will freeze at temperatures below 8 degrees F.

(THE ABOVE STEPS FOR ANTIFREEZE FLUSHING IS INTENDED FOR SERVICE ON 2-STROKE OPEN LOOPED EXHAUST UNITS ONLY. THIS METHOD IS NOT CORRECT FOR CLOSED LOOP 4-STROKE CRAFTS, SUCH AS SOME OF THE NEW SEA-DOO MODELS)